Una semana por la mágica Islandia
Desde el 14 de febrero hasta el 21 del mismo mes hemos recorrido la parte sur de esta isla que no deja indiferente a nadie.
Aquí os enseño algunas fotografías así como el nombre de los lugares y alojamientos de los que disfrutamos. Dado que la oferta no es muy amplia en esta isla, seguro que a más de uno le puedo venir de perlas esta información.
Mi viaje comenzó con un vuelo directo en Tenerife Sur y Reikiavik. Una suerte que a los islandeses les encante el buen tiempo porque gracias a ello dispongo de tres vuelos directos a la semana que unen ambos lugares.
Volé con la compañía Wow Air. Del estilo Ryanair donde miran con lupa los excesos de equipaje… Menos mal que como había leído al respecto, compré junto al billete una maleta extra para llevar en cabina conmigo. Tuve que meterla (a presión) en el típico utensilio que sirve para comprobar que las medidas de tu equipaje son las que la compañía establece. Al final, tras sacar un libro y el portátil, cupo.
De no haber sido así, a pesar de haber pagado por ella, hubiera hecho falta un upgrade de 24€ y mi equipo hubiera volado en bodega pero, afortunadamente, escapé de eso… 😉
Cuando llegué a mi destino sobre las 22h, allí me esperaban ya mis amigos David y Juan Carlos que habían llegado horas antes en vuelo procedente de Madrid con Norweian. Me puse mi ropa de abrigo, saboreamos tres bocadillos en Subway (15€ unidad) y nos fuimos a Laugarvatn donde hicimos las primeras fotos bajo un cielo encapotado, lluvioso y sin rastro de auroras boreales.
Estas fotografías corresponden a la zona y a la cascada de Öxarárfoss.
El miércoles día 15 nos despertamos y comenzó nuestra ruta hacia con una breve parada en la cascada Gullfoss. Tiene un caudal de tantos millones de metros cúbicos en caída libre que el spray que produce la hace prácticamente imposible de fotografiar. Aunque eso sí, siempre sacamos momento para hacernos nuestras propias fotografías de recuerdo, a veces, más con el móvil que con la cámara debido al mal tiempo que nos azotaba.
Algo similar nos ocurrió en Urriðafoss donde tras la imposibilidad de montar los trípodes, disfrutamos eso sí, de un paseo por las inmediaciones de otra cascada de dimensiones descomunales.
Realizmos el check in en la granja Bakland Adlagafeli Apartment desde la que fuimos a fotografiar esta mágica cascada que, para nuestra sorpresa, estaba iluminada y nos facilitó mucho la tarea.
Al ser tan grande la iluminación no hubiera resultado fácil pero pudimos disfrutar mucho. Allí coincidimos con más fotógrafos nocturnos de muchas partes del mundo entusiasmados en capturar la belleza del lugar. Si queréis información de ella, su nombre es Seljalandsföss.
El jueves fuimos hasta Vyk. Un pueblo con algo más de movimiento de lo que es habitual en cuanto sales de la capital Reikiavik.
De camino no dejamos ni un momento de hacer fotos. Casas mágicas, lugares con encanto, paisajes infinitos, eso sí, todo aderezado de mucha, pero que mucha lluvia.
Uno de los momentos mágicos de este día fue cuando llegamos a la laguna de Fjallsárlón. Aunque yo ya la conocía de otro año, volvió a impresionarme creo que más que la primera vez. Sentí escalofríos y creedme que me emocioné. La belleza es monumental pero quizás yo no sea consciente de que el deshielo está acabando con el glaciar…
Era obligatoria volver ahí de noche pero la niebla podía jugarnos una muy mala pasada así que fuimos al archiconocido Jökulsárlón. De los lugares con mayor encanto donde los bloques de hielo son enormes y están a escasos metros de ti.
No dudamos en ir a la noche con nuestras linternas y aquí tenemos el resultado que nos fascinó.
Si buscas sitio para pernoctar, nosotros lo hicimos en el Bed and Breakfast Kalfafellsstadur donde pudimos alojarnos cómodamente.
La mañana del viernes nos llevó por una pista de tierra hasta que llegamos a Stokksnes. Ni se parecía a las fotografías que habíamos visto de otras personas. Otra vez el tiempo… pero este es el encanto del país. Tienes las cuatro estaciones en 20 minutos…
Y otra vez al coche para dar marcha atrás hacia Diamont Beach o Joukaslon Ice Beach. Ese lugar mágico que es una playa con bloques de hielo. Arena negra volcánica con hielo de miles de años proveniente del glaciar que reinaba a nuestras espaldas.
Esta es la playa desde la que emití un vídeo en directo a través de mi cuenta de Facebook y compartimos un rato juntos.
El sábado continuó siendo un excited day pues estuvimos en Svinafellsjokull un glaciar impresionante.
Dimos un paseo disfrutando que la naturaleza nos obsequiaba con unos magníficos rayos de sol y no dejamos de hacer fotos. Eso sí, esta vez fue el iPhone encargado de inmortalizar el momento.
Véanse estas fotos a continuación.
Durante la noche de este día y la siguiente nuestro alojamiento y campamento base estaba en Hvoll Cottages. Unas cabañas en medio de un páramos que, de haber habido fuertes auroras boreales hubiera sido un lugar perfecto.
Y, hablando de ellas, no podemos decir, yo al menos, que las vi bailando en el cielo. Sin embargo, la magia sí sucedió.
Hacer una foto y que el cielo salga verde fue una sensación mágica.
Este se debió a que la actividad en el cielo era alta y, aunque no tanto para que se produjera la esperada aurora, sí pudimos captar estas bellísimas imágenes que, a mí, me emocionaron.
Conseguir estas fotos fue toda una aventura pues en nuestra zona el cielo estaba completamente encapotado.
Nuestro modus operandi fue el siguiente:
Visitar continuamente esta página web http://en.vedur.is e ir con el coche hacia donde se esperaba un cielo claro.
Lógicamente eso te hace ir a un lugar que no conoces y que no sabes si vas a tener algo que fotografiar. Es aquí donde se ve si tienes experiencia porque, de la nada, te sacas unas fotos de las que te hacen pasar un buen rato.
Conforme pasan los días vamos descubriendo más y más sitios. La Playa de Reinissfjara y faro de Dyrholaey fueron otros dos sitios con encanto. Lugares difíciles de fotografiar con el viento insoportable, la lluvia o, simplemente, una niebla un poco más densa de lo deseado. Lejos de desistir hicimos lo posible e imposible por pasárnoslo bien mientras sacábamos la tarea adelante en estas condiciones.
Llegando al final de nuestra expedición, no quisimos dejar la oportunidad de visitar la iglesia de Vyk, el cementerio anexo y las playas de alrededor. Además, esta localidad es muy buena como avituallamiento pues puedes repostar, comprar en supermercados e incluso algún souvenir sin mucha complicación. Cosa que en Islandia, no siempre es fácil hacer estas tres cosas.
Y bueno, conforme iba avanzando nuestra aventura, rematamos la faena con unas fotos de larga exposición diurna en la mágica Skógafoss y un faro próximo al Aeropuerto Internacional de Keflavik desde donde partiríamos rumbo a nuestras casas.
Y bueno, hasta aquí este resumen de una semana por la mágica Islandia. Un lugar que te enseña qué es la naturaleza, qué consecuencias tiene en ella la acción del ser humano y que te pone el corazón a mil cuando estás haciendo fotos.
Un abrazo y gracias por dedicar unos minutos a leer este texto.
De corazón.
Mario Rubio.
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Hermosas fotos de las que me gustan sacar.larga exposición diurna y nocturna..Me gustaria ir a fines de septiembre y estoy averiguando.Conseguiste por booking.com por Airbnb el alojamiento? o por donde? Tambien averigué para alquilar un jeep. Lo caro veo que es el alojamiento y la comida,pero podria seguir tus consejos y llevar latas.
Las rutas supongo que estan todas señalizadas y no deber ni haber casi nada de trafico. Cuantos dias se han quedado ? Yo quiero ir una semana y para el primer dia en Reikyavik pero los demas dias no se como distribuirlos.Se que lo mejor esta en el sur y la mayoria van hasta Hofn.
Excelentes fotos y con ganas de visitar ese hermoso país. Por curiosidad, ademas de cámara y trípode, que objetivos llevabas?.
Excelente viaje y más que excelentes fotos. Para mí que vivo en Uruguay, América del Sur y con poco trabajo, me es absolutamente imposible hacer ese viaje, así que te agradezco que me permitas viajar con tus fotos.
Las fotos son tan buenas buenas que se nota que disfrutaste del viaje al máximo. Felicidades por las fotos y por haber podido vivir esta experiencia tan bonita. Gracias. Saludos.
Qué envidia das jajaja
Por cierto ¿»cupió»? Ahora también generas neologismos ¡arriba Mario! 😂😂😂
¡Ay señor! Corregido. Muchas gracias.
Muchas gracias Mario por compartir tu experiencia, seguro que nos viene bien a más de uno.
Las fotos fantásticas, la información super interesante, tu generosidad admirable… Gracias por todo lo que aprendemos contigo. ¡Qué grande eres!
Wow si ya tenia ganas de ir, después de ver tus fotos ni te cuento… muchas gracias por toda la info, un saludo!!
Hola, cero que es una aventura muy chula e interesante y se trata de un sitio en el puedes obtener una colección enorme de fotografías porque, al ser tan conocidas todas y cada una de las localizaciones, hay una gran información al respecto en internet. ¿Os habéis comido mucho la olla a la hora de elegir las localizaciones?, ¿no habéis tenido que pedir «la vez» para poder poner el trípode en el mejor lugar?. Chulísimas las fotos, algunas me encantan. Saludos, buen trabajo.
Hola Francisco: Solo una noche coincidimos en una cascada con un par de japoneses pero ni en un solo momento nos ha estorbado nadie. Islandia es un país grande y a nada que tengas el más mínimo de creatividad te buscas tu rincón. Todos vamos al mismo sitio pero ya depende de ti quedarte en el mirador de los guiris y darte un paseo y tener «tu encuadre».
Expectacular, increible… me das envidia cochina mala mala… La pregunta del millon ya que decias precios de bocadillos y tal… si se puede preguntar ¿cual es el precio de la escapada completa desde que sales de tu casa a cuando llegas? si no quieres contestar se entiende
Claro que contesto hombre. Mira, nosotros fuimos 3 amigos y dormimos en hoteles con tres camas o en casas con habitaciones para 3. Un día tuvimos una cabaña guapísima con cocina, otro día un apartamento para nosotros solos, a veces una habitación con baño compartido… Todos los sitios decentes, limpios y acogedores. En ninguno nos sentimos mal.
Luego llevamos desde España una maleta de comida con 50€ en productos de fiambre, sopas de sobre, pasta para calentar, latas de conserva, etc… Allí los gastos que tuvimos fueron: coche de alquiler, los hoteles, gasolina, el pan diario que comprábamos, algunas bolsas de patatas fritas, algún perrito, una cerveza y cosas así… Total, por cabeza, 650€ a lo que le tienes que sumar el vuelo. En mi caso, desde Tenerife facturando dos maletas y asiento XL me salió cerca de 600€. Mis amigos que fueron desde Madrid facturando menos equipaje que yo les costó unos 200€. En resumidas, cuentas, por unos 1.000€ te pasas una semana en Islandia de lujo.
Espero haberte ayudado a resolver tus dudas. Cualquier cosa, ya sabes. Un abrazo.
claro que me has ayudado. Creia que era un viaje NO apto para cualquier bolsillo, pero 1000 euros aprox por una vez si te puedes gastar. Y los datos que das respecto a las comidas y lugares para dormir es super importante. Avisa para la proxima que me voy contigo si me deja mi mujer y mi bebé jejeej
Mar io he visto fotos maravillosas y he intentado hacer algunas que valgan la pena pero confieso que nunca habian despertado mi curiosidad las fotografias nocturnas , tal vez porque no las se dominar . Pero al conocer tu blog con esas maravillas ya quisiera comenzar a probar esta modalidad. Muchas gracias por abrir el camino a nuevas experiencias . Alejandro Buenos Aires Argentina
Muchas gracias por compartir con todos los demás tu experiencia fotográfica en Islandia. Siempre estoy expectante a las fotos que haces y para no variar son impresionantes, las nocturnas con el cielo verde esmeralda son mis preferidas. ¡¡¡ Los pelos como escarpias !!!.
Fernando Estévez
Muchas gracias por compartir ese viaje. Tiene pinta de haber sido espectacular, y magnificas fotos.
Un saludo.
Excelente Mario.
Gracias por mostrarnos una vez más y de una manera esquisita los viajes que haces. El texto que acompaña las fotos te hace meter en situación y transmite las emociónes de como habéis vivido esa experiencia, sin duda envidia sana, orgulloso de ver lo que haces y como lo haces.
Siempre siguiendo tus aventuras y no me haría más feliz que en alguna ocasión pudiera acompañarte en alguna de ellas.
Un abrazo fuerte !
Fabulosas fotos, pero que conste que lo hacer para ponernos los dientes largos con nuestro viaje soñado
Enhorabuena por las fotos
Espero poder ir algun dia
Pues anímate Eduardo porque bien merece la pena. Un país para aprender muuuuchas cosas.
Ohhh que envidia!! Esta en mis viajes pendientes! A ver si el enano crece un poco (5 meses).
Muy buenas fotos como siempre 😉
Espera un poquito sí que igual hace mucho frío para él… 😉
Gran experiencia y lugares con una cierta magia que da a la fotografía un aro especial. Como siempre Mario un gran trabajo.
Envidia sana.
Gracias por compartir tu trabajo.
Antonio Valladares.
Gracias Antonio. Un país de lo más interesante.
Muy chulo, que suerte poder visitar esos lugares.
Nada como viajar. Pero no tiene que ser lejos, lo importante es moverse para aprender y vivir. 😉
Un abrazo.
Muchas gracias Mario, muy interesante y muuuuuy buenas fotos, es un viaje que tenemos pendiente. Saludos unos vemos en Mayo.